I arrived home on Tuesday evening. I can't believe I have almost been home a whole week! It has really flown by. And in a few days we will be celebrating Thanksgiving! Jeeze. Well, I have much more to say, but for now it is good to be home. Tomorrow I start work again, after a month off. I am happy I have a three day week and then some time off again. It is good to get back into things slowly. My house is mostly back in order. It was a disaster because after my birthday party I pretty much just threw things in the back room in a pile. This week I have been cleaning up and putting things away and doing piles of laundry. Fun. I also went out and bought a few things to make some fun Thank You cards. That will be my project next week.
Mexico was amazing as usual. I am already planning my next expedition down there!
More thoughts on Mexico and traveling to come...
And photos... Finally!
Mexican Sunset
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Adentures in Mexico
The computer is extremely slow this morning. Very frustrating, so this will be short.
I woke up this morning with a big swollen eye. I figure I was bit by a spider or mosquito in the night. It was almost completely shut. Glad I am not going to school today.
Doug, Brianne and I are going on a trip to Cuernavaca and to a couple of small villages south of there. I am really exciteded to be going with them as they are great company and will appreciate the adventure of it. The one of the villages has a market on Sundays and the other is known for painted laquer boxes. I think I may have written about it earlier.
I need to get the map and stuff which may take some time given the speed of the computer today. Adios para ahora.
I woke up this morning with a big swollen eye. I figure I was bit by a spider or mosquito in the night. It was almost completely shut. Glad I am not going to school today.
Doug, Brianne and I are going on a trip to Cuernavaca and to a couple of small villages south of there. I am really exciteded to be going with them as they are great company and will appreciate the adventure of it. The one of the villages has a market on Sundays and the other is known for painted laquer boxes. I think I may have written about it earlier.
I need to get the map and stuff which may take some time given the speed of the computer today. Adios para ahora.
Friday, November 09, 2007
Mi Ultimo Dia en San Miguel de Allende
So, it's my last evening here in SMA. Time, as usual, has flown by. I feel like I just arrived! After school today I went to a knitting (crocheting, and quilting too) group with Brianne and finished the sweater I started in June. It's a good thing, because it is actually really cold here, especially in the evenings and in the morning. When the sun comes out, all is grand. In any case, the knitting group is a group of women who live in SMA, including one woman from Mexico City. I even got to practice my Spanish a little. It was good to meet some people who live here. I think they are all really interesting and have great stories to tell. When I come back, I will definitely be in touch. I guess I feel at home with other "artists."
This morning was interesting. I woke up at 5am, before the sun rose, to the sound of really bad singing through a mega-phone, with acapella accompaniment. They were singing about Santa Maria Ava... at least that is what I remember from the fog of my brain at dark o'clock. I tried really hard to ignore it, but wasn't successful. Although I have earplugs with me, I find it hard to fall asleep with them because I can hear my heart beating in my ears. So, I didn't have them in. Not that it would have mattered! Eventually I fell back to sleep. Then at 7:30 or so, I am wakened again by a big marching band coming down the street. I threw on a sweatshirt and ran outside to check out the action. It was a much smaller group than I expected. And I didn't take any photos because I have seen that the people from more rural areas ("campesinos") really do not like having their photos taken. Although it was a small group, there were even some dancers.
Yesterday, after a trip to the inaugural opening of the department store "Liverpool" there was a group of campesinos marching down the street in the afternoon at around 3pm. It is amazing to me the contrast between the have and have-nots here. Liverpool was a glittery place like Macy's with REALLY expensive clothes, shoes, makeup, and everything else you can think of. There were mostly rich Mexicans shopping, although we didn't see many purchases happening. On the other hand, the other typical life lived in Mexico is that of the people who are extremely poor. They work hard. They live out in the ranches and rural areas seemingly in the middle of nowhere. (You will often be in a bus that will stop to let someone off in the middle of the highway, maybe at a crossroads, or maybe not. They will disappear into the shrubs.) And they are very very religious. According to my Spanish teacher, there are pilgrimages all throughout the year such as the ones I have seen (or heard). The one I am really bummed that I missed was the caballeros marching through town on their horses. I had heard about it, and seen some of them on the way back to the house from Liverpool. But, they marched through while I was on my way home and I missed them! I really would have loved to see them. I heard there were at least 500 of them. They make a pilgrimage to be blessed (maybe here at the Parroquia, the big church in town - there are numerous churches of course) and then go on to the next blessing. I will have to do more research on the event.
I have met so many amazing people down here. I am really sad to leave.
I would highly recommend the Academia where I took my Spanish classes, and my teachers Aida (group) and Ezequiel (private) in particular! I really got to know Ezequiel pretty well, because a lot of what we did was converse. He has a lot in common with me in how we look at the world and also what kinds of things he has done for a living. Before teaching, he worked at CASA which is an agency for battered women and he did groups with people regarding various gender issues. I gather he did other things more administrative as well. Now, in addition to teaching he works with a non profit agency that gives loans to people (mostly in the campos/rural areas) so they are able to start little businesses. I believe he helps them with all of the processes involved with starting a small business. And he is a great teacher too!
Well, for now, that's it. My hands and wrists are getting sore.
Hasta mas tarde. Besos.
This morning was interesting. I woke up at 5am, before the sun rose, to the sound of really bad singing through a mega-phone, with acapella accompaniment. They were singing about Santa Maria Ava... at least that is what I remember from the fog of my brain at dark o'clock. I tried really hard to ignore it, but wasn't successful. Although I have earplugs with me, I find it hard to fall asleep with them because I can hear my heart beating in my ears. So, I didn't have them in. Not that it would have mattered! Eventually I fell back to sleep. Then at 7:30 or so, I am wakened again by a big marching band coming down the street. I threw on a sweatshirt and ran outside to check out the action. It was a much smaller group than I expected. And I didn't take any photos because I have seen that the people from more rural areas ("campesinos") really do not like having their photos taken. Although it was a small group, there were even some dancers.
Yesterday, after a trip to the inaugural opening of the department store "Liverpool" there was a group of campesinos marching down the street in the afternoon at around 3pm. It is amazing to me the contrast between the have and have-nots here. Liverpool was a glittery place like Macy's with REALLY expensive clothes, shoes, makeup, and everything else you can think of. There were mostly rich Mexicans shopping, although we didn't see many purchases happening. On the other hand, the other typical life lived in Mexico is that of the people who are extremely poor. They work hard. They live out in the ranches and rural areas seemingly in the middle of nowhere. (You will often be in a bus that will stop to let someone off in the middle of the highway, maybe at a crossroads, or maybe not. They will disappear into the shrubs.) And they are very very religious. According to my Spanish teacher, there are pilgrimages all throughout the year such as the ones I have seen (or heard). The one I am really bummed that I missed was the caballeros marching through town on their horses. I had heard about it, and seen some of them on the way back to the house from Liverpool. But, they marched through while I was on my way home and I missed them! I really would have loved to see them. I heard there were at least 500 of them. They make a pilgrimage to be blessed (maybe here at the Parroquia, the big church in town - there are numerous churches of course) and then go on to the next blessing. I will have to do more research on the event.
I have met so many amazing people down here. I am really sad to leave.
I would highly recommend the Academia where I took my Spanish classes, and my teachers Aida (group) and Ezequiel (private) in particular! I really got to know Ezequiel pretty well, because a lot of what we did was converse. He has a lot in common with me in how we look at the world and also what kinds of things he has done for a living. Before teaching, he worked at CASA which is an agency for battered women and he did groups with people regarding various gender issues. I gather he did other things more administrative as well. Now, in addition to teaching he works with a non profit agency that gives loans to people (mostly in the campos/rural areas) so they are able to start little businesses. I believe he helps them with all of the processes involved with starting a small business. And he is a great teacher too!
Well, for now, that's it. My hands and wrists are getting sore.
Hasta mas tarde. Besos.
Thursday, November 08, 2007
Escuela y Mas Escuela
Buenos dias!
I haven't had time to write for a couple of days... mostly because I have been in school studying Spanish 4 hours a day. I think today is Thursday and today is my last private lesson. That is good because I am feeling like I really want to do something else in the afternoon, but I can't because I have class. Anyway, I can really tell that my Spanish is MUCH better. I definitely need to continue taking classes during the year and maybe find a conversation group or a cute Mexican man to speak with regularly. I need to start up my salsa dancing again!
Anyway, not much has happened here. I have been busy studying and have done a little shopping here and there. I am really enjoying hanging out with Doug and Brianne. We have had some pretty interesting and deep conversations. It wasn't deep but last night, they told me about 2 girls, traveling gringas, who died in their hotel room because they left their heater on in the night and it killed them with carbon monoxide poisoning. Awful. I had no idea about those heaters because I have never had one. When I first arrived, Doug was explaining how to use the heater in my room and told me not to leave it on when I was sleeping. He didn't tell me why! Even so, I have been very careful to turn it off every night. I guess when he said it he made an impression (and I want to be good guest). Anyway. I don't think it would be possible for me to die in the room where I am staying because it is really big and airy with lots of cracks in the windows and a very tall ceiling.
The ceiling is really cool actually. It is a dome made with brick. Every morning I wake up looking at it and wondering how the hell they made it. I am certain they built it by hand, but I have no idea how. It has a beautiful symetric pattern emminating (my spelling sucks and I don't know how to use spell check on this Mac) out from the center.
There have been a few experiences I will write about when I have more time. One is garbage collection day, another is about the old ladies I have met, and yesterday I met a guy with candied apples and guyabas. He let me take a photo of them (but not of him). Those are the ones that come to mind right now, but I am sure there are a few others... I try to write the gist of it down when it happens so I won't forget. I am 40 now after all. The brain just isn't the same. :)
I haven't had time to write for a couple of days... mostly because I have been in school studying Spanish 4 hours a day. I think today is Thursday and today is my last private lesson. That is good because I am feeling like I really want to do something else in the afternoon, but I can't because I have class. Anyway, I can really tell that my Spanish is MUCH better. I definitely need to continue taking classes during the year and maybe find a conversation group or a cute Mexican man to speak with regularly. I need to start up my salsa dancing again!
Anyway, not much has happened here. I have been busy studying and have done a little shopping here and there. I am really enjoying hanging out with Doug and Brianne. We have had some pretty interesting and deep conversations. It wasn't deep but last night, they told me about 2 girls, traveling gringas, who died in their hotel room because they left their heater on in the night and it killed them with carbon monoxide poisoning. Awful. I had no idea about those heaters because I have never had one. When I first arrived, Doug was explaining how to use the heater in my room and told me not to leave it on when I was sleeping. He didn't tell me why! Even so, I have been very careful to turn it off every night. I guess when he said it he made an impression (and I want to be good guest). Anyway. I don't think it would be possible for me to die in the room where I am staying because it is really big and airy with lots of cracks in the windows and a very tall ceiling.
The ceiling is really cool actually. It is a dome made with brick. Every morning I wake up looking at it and wondering how the hell they made it. I am certain they built it by hand, but I have no idea how. It has a beautiful symetric pattern emminating (my spelling sucks and I don't know how to use spell check on this Mac) out from the center.
There have been a few experiences I will write about when I have more time. One is garbage collection day, another is about the old ladies I have met, and yesterday I met a guy with candied apples and guyabas. He let me take a photo of them (but not of him). Those are the ones that come to mind right now, but I am sure there are a few others... I try to write the gist of it down when it happens so I won't forget. I am 40 now after all. The brain just isn't the same. :)
Monday, November 05, 2007
Carnitas Galore
On the way into Delores Hidalgo, we went to eat carnitas at Vincente's. Brianne told me the rule: "As you are walking into the restaurant, do not look into the big pot on the left." Well, of course I had to check it out... This is why I don't cook carnitas myself! It was a giant stainless steel vat of oil and pig parts; all the parts. (Maybe I can get Anthony to try the cabeza/head? He will eat anything!) But, damn that shit was good! We ordered chips and guacamole. You have to order chips down here, they don't just come with a meal. Usually there is at least one salsa, in this case there were two, one hot and one salsa fresca. And a pile of carnitas, both ribs and white meat, with loads of handmade tortillas. GOOD GOOD GOOD! It seems to be a popular place among the gringo population here as well as with the Mexican folks. At around 1pm when we arrived there were only a few other people. But by the time we left we were surrounded... a giant family of Mexicans were sitting right next to us eating chicharron (fried pig skin), empanadas, tacos, and carnitas.
After stuffing ourselves, we headed down the street. Someone asked Doug, who was driving, where he was headed and weren't we going to the ceramics shops. He said,"Oh, I was heading for ice cream. Were we going shopping?" We didn't stop for ice cream. I am not too crazy for ice cream, but hear it is excellent down here.
The shops were actually HUGE warehouses FULL of plates, bowls, cups, sinks, vases, dining sets, spoons, boxes, planters, whimsical animals for the wall or for plants, and even a fish serving dish that is made with space underneath for a little fire to keep the food warm. That I will have to have a photo of so you can see it! Very funny. Basically, anything you can think of, you could find. And everything is painted with brilliant colors in various patterns, many with a floral theme. I thought if I didn't bring too much money I wouldn't spend much. Famous last words! I borrowed some cash and got everything I wanted. And then some! I keep wondering how I am going to get it all home without breaking it.
I am making dinner tonight: pasta with shrimp and veggies, and a salad. And maybe even chocolate chip cookies. Mmmm.
After stuffing ourselves, we headed down the street. Someone asked Doug, who was driving, where he was headed and weren't we going to the ceramics shops. He said,"Oh, I was heading for ice cream. Were we going shopping?" We didn't stop for ice cream. I am not too crazy for ice cream, but hear it is excellent down here.
The shops were actually HUGE warehouses FULL of plates, bowls, cups, sinks, vases, dining sets, spoons, boxes, planters, whimsical animals for the wall or for plants, and even a fish serving dish that is made with space underneath for a little fire to keep the food warm. That I will have to have a photo of so you can see it! Very funny. Basically, anything you can think of, you could find. And everything is painted with brilliant colors in various patterns, many with a floral theme. I thought if I didn't bring too much money I wouldn't spend much. Famous last words! I borrowed some cash and got everything I wanted. And then some! I keep wondering how I am going to get it all home without breaking it.
I am making dinner tonight: pasta with shrimp and veggies, and a salad. And maybe even chocolate chip cookies. Mmmm.
AKA Todos Santos
I have almost been here a whole week already! Wow. Time flies when you are having a good time! Last week seems like a blur. But I have more to say about Dia de los Muertos...
On Friday Brianne, Doug, their friend Suzanne (very fun, friendly person) and I took a short walk over to the old cemetery. They no longer bury people there because it got too small for the ever increasing population of SMA. Interestingly, there are plenty of gringos in the cemeteries. There was even one who died in 1908 or so. The old cemetery has been totally locked up for many years and only recently did they open in for Dia de los Muertos. A group of Mexican women get together on Nov. 1 and decorate all of the graves, hang papel picado, and make an altar. This year the altar was for a man who was a big radio personality in SMA who died last year. Apparently he was very well known and respected in the community.
After touring the cemetery we had a pleasant lunch at a small place on the way home. We all had beautiful salads with real lettuce, carrots, beets, cucumbers, and avocado. The wait staff all spoke perfect English. And if I spoke in Spanish they responded in English. I find many people will do that. It works for me. I get to practice my Spanish while they practice their English.
That was the big event of the day. I haven't been going out at night, because it feels weird to go alone and I am just as happy having dinner and conversation here with D&B. The first few nights we were trying out two different cooks. It was fun to do little critiques of their Mexican cooking. Some of it was excellent (the green salsa one made was to die for) and some was pretty bad (apples, pineapples, and nuts with cream). In any case, I have now been earning my keep by cooking a few things... which I am loving! It is so nice to be appreciated.
The first dish was chocolate bread pudding. I call it Pudding de Dia de los Muertos because I made it Friday and because I made it with pan de muertos (special bread for the day) and the chocolate (with cinnamon) they use here to make hot chocolate. It tasted really good, but it was not at all light and fluffy like the last bread pudding I made. Maybe the altitude was a problem? SMA is at 6500 feet.
Last night after visiting a really interesting gallery, owned by a couple from Berkeley (more on that later), I made potato leek soup, green salad, and zuccini cheddar muffins and bread. It all came out pretty well. Apparently Doug REALLY loves soup, so I made a friend! I just love cooking so much! I am going to do some chocolate chip cookies tonight because there are no good cookies here in SMA.
One thing I am not able to do as well as the Mexicans is their carnitas! On Saturday D&B and Suzanne and I took a ride into Delores Hidalgo. It is in this city that most of the talavera (brightly painted ceramic dishes, etc) are from. Puebla is also known for it's talavera, which is supposedly nicer and has a commiserate price tag. I personally think they are totally different, like comparing apples and oranges.
Running off to school.
On Friday Brianne, Doug, their friend Suzanne (very fun, friendly person) and I took a short walk over to the old cemetery. They no longer bury people there because it got too small for the ever increasing population of SMA. Interestingly, there are plenty of gringos in the cemeteries. There was even one who died in 1908 or so. The old cemetery has been totally locked up for many years and only recently did they open in for Dia de los Muertos. A group of Mexican women get together on Nov. 1 and decorate all of the graves, hang papel picado, and make an altar. This year the altar was for a man who was a big radio personality in SMA who died last year. Apparently he was very well known and respected in the community.
After touring the cemetery we had a pleasant lunch at a small place on the way home. We all had beautiful salads with real lettuce, carrots, beets, cucumbers, and avocado. The wait staff all spoke perfect English. And if I spoke in Spanish they responded in English. I find many people will do that. It works for me. I get to practice my Spanish while they practice their English.
That was the big event of the day. I haven't been going out at night, because it feels weird to go alone and I am just as happy having dinner and conversation here with D&B. The first few nights we were trying out two different cooks. It was fun to do little critiques of their Mexican cooking. Some of it was excellent (the green salsa one made was to die for) and some was pretty bad (apples, pineapples, and nuts with cream). In any case, I have now been earning my keep by cooking a few things... which I am loving! It is so nice to be appreciated.
The first dish was chocolate bread pudding. I call it Pudding de Dia de los Muertos because I made it Friday and because I made it with pan de muertos (special bread for the day) and the chocolate (with cinnamon) they use here to make hot chocolate. It tasted really good, but it was not at all light and fluffy like the last bread pudding I made. Maybe the altitude was a problem? SMA is at 6500 feet.
Last night after visiting a really interesting gallery, owned by a couple from Berkeley (more on that later), I made potato leek soup, green salad, and zuccini cheddar muffins and bread. It all came out pretty well. Apparently Doug REALLY loves soup, so I made a friend! I just love cooking so much! I am going to do some chocolate chip cookies tonight because there are no good cookies here in SMA.
One thing I am not able to do as well as the Mexicans is their carnitas! On Saturday D&B and Suzanne and I took a ride into Delores Hidalgo. It is in this city that most of the talavera (brightly painted ceramic dishes, etc) are from. Puebla is also known for it's talavera, which is supposedly nicer and has a commiserate price tag. I personally think they are totally different, like comparing apples and oranges.
Running off to school.
Saturday, November 03, 2007
Dia de los Muertos
Did I mention I had the best birthday ever? I have the most awesome family and friends!
In any case, here I am in San Miguel de Allende. I am staying with Doug and Brianne, father and step-mother of my good friend Alison. I wish she was here with me! But, I am making due. Doug and Brianne are awesome! Their home is beautiful (we're talking Home and Garden beautiful!), they have been extremely welcoming, helpful, and very fun to hang out with.
The first day I was here I stayed in the house all day. I spent time on the roof terrace, reading and chatting with D&B, in the courtyard when the roof got too hot, in the bed taking a luxurious 2.5 hour nap, in the TV room watching the news, and in the dining room eating a lovely meal of green bean soup, albondigas (meatballs) with red sauce, rice, and one of the best green salsas I have ever had in my life. It was a good day.
In the morning I went to a yoga class with D&B. It was perfect since I haven't done yoga in ages. I was stiff! So, the class is held in a room in the Bellas Artes, which is located a couple blocks away in an amazing colonial style building, all the rooms set around a large courtyard. They had papel picado (colorful, cut tissue paper) strung all over the walkways around the center. After yoga was breakfast and then a jaunt to check out the local Spanish language schools. I ended up choosing one that is located almost directly across the street from the hotel K & I stayed in April. Academia has group and private lessons and as I am not here very long, I have decided to do both for a week. I started with one private class yesterday and will continue for the rest of next week with both. I am very excited to improve a little and possibly be tested for bilingual pay at work eventually. I think I will have to come down here more often if that is going to be a reality. In any case, it is great to have a place to meet people and improve my Spanish.
Thursday and Friday, November 1st and 2nd were huge celebration days here in San Miguel de Allende (SMA) and all over Mexico. They celebrate and eulogize their family members, important people in the community who have had an impact on many lives, and friends. Altars are created which assist the dead to pass back into the world of the living to visit their families. The papel picado is cut with different scenes with skeletons in all different colors of tissue paper. They come in all sizes. I even saw some that were probably 5.5 feet tall and 2 feet wide. These are hung all over town (mostly in the zocalo) and in the cemeteries. Gold or orange marigolds and purple garra de lion (lion's claw) flowers are everywhere. Thursday is a day of preparation. In the zocalo there were students hanging papel picado, erecting a giant altar and putting marigold flowers everywhere. Additionally, there were designs of skulls and ancient Aztec and Mayan gods "painted" with colorful wood chips, corn, seeds, and other natural dry ingredients.
On the way to the main cemetery there is an entire street devoted to stands of florists, people preparing and selling food, and tables with sugar skulls, lambs, hens, and fake food. All of these items have significance in promoting a safe journey for the soul to come back and then return again to the realms of the dead. Most Mexicans are Catholic, so they mostly believe that souls are in heaven. This is a holiday which is definitely not Catholic and originates from the indigenous cultures pre-Spanish take-over.
Inside the cemetery people were busy cleaning the gravestones, painting them white in some cases, and putting colorful flowers all over the tombs. The tombs and plots are different than those in the US in that they are mostly raised, there are very few marble stones, often the grave has a gate around it, and in some cases there is nothing but a simple cross and a mound of dirt. There were also stacked crypts, walls of them, each with a small box facing out, with enough space and a ledge to put flowers on and other items you might find on an altar.
The place was buzzing with activity, but there was very little display of sadness.
November 1st is also a day to specifically celebrate the lives of children who have passed.
In the evening D&B and I went to my favorite place for pozole. It is their favorite place too! Actually it was the first restaurant K and I went to in April. And their pozole is very good. (I have never had better pozole than a little place in Cuernavaca and one of the stand in Coyoacan in Mexico City.) The zocalo was swarming with Mexicans, gringos, and children in costumes, mariachi bands, a skeleton couple on stilts, both before and after we had dinner. It was very exciting and the energy was high.
Mas, mas tarde.
In any case, here I am in San Miguel de Allende. I am staying with Doug and Brianne, father and step-mother of my good friend Alison. I wish she was here with me! But, I am making due. Doug and Brianne are awesome! Their home is beautiful (we're talking Home and Garden beautiful!), they have been extremely welcoming, helpful, and very fun to hang out with.
The first day I was here I stayed in the house all day. I spent time on the roof terrace, reading and chatting with D&B, in the courtyard when the roof got too hot, in the bed taking a luxurious 2.5 hour nap, in the TV room watching the news, and in the dining room eating a lovely meal of green bean soup, albondigas (meatballs) with red sauce, rice, and one of the best green salsas I have ever had in my life. It was a good day.
In the morning I went to a yoga class with D&B. It was perfect since I haven't done yoga in ages. I was stiff! So, the class is held in a room in the Bellas Artes, which is located a couple blocks away in an amazing colonial style building, all the rooms set around a large courtyard. They had papel picado (colorful, cut tissue paper) strung all over the walkways around the center. After yoga was breakfast and then a jaunt to check out the local Spanish language schools. I ended up choosing one that is located almost directly across the street from the hotel K & I stayed in April. Academia has group and private lessons and as I am not here very long, I have decided to do both for a week. I started with one private class yesterday and will continue for the rest of next week with both. I am very excited to improve a little and possibly be tested for bilingual pay at work eventually. I think I will have to come down here more often if that is going to be a reality. In any case, it is great to have a place to meet people and improve my Spanish.
Thursday and Friday, November 1st and 2nd were huge celebration days here in San Miguel de Allende (SMA) and all over Mexico. They celebrate and eulogize their family members, important people in the community who have had an impact on many lives, and friends. Altars are created which assist the dead to pass back into the world of the living to visit their families. The papel picado is cut with different scenes with skeletons in all different colors of tissue paper. They come in all sizes. I even saw some that were probably 5.5 feet tall and 2 feet wide. These are hung all over town (mostly in the zocalo) and in the cemeteries. Gold or orange marigolds and purple garra de lion (lion's claw) flowers are everywhere. Thursday is a day of preparation. In the zocalo there were students hanging papel picado, erecting a giant altar and putting marigold flowers everywhere. Additionally, there were designs of skulls and ancient Aztec and Mayan gods "painted" with colorful wood chips, corn, seeds, and other natural dry ingredients.
On the way to the main cemetery there is an entire street devoted to stands of florists, people preparing and selling food, and tables with sugar skulls, lambs, hens, and fake food. All of these items have significance in promoting a safe journey for the soul to come back and then return again to the realms of the dead. Most Mexicans are Catholic, so they mostly believe that souls are in heaven. This is a holiday which is definitely not Catholic and originates from the indigenous cultures pre-Spanish take-over.
Inside the cemetery people were busy cleaning the gravestones, painting them white in some cases, and putting colorful flowers all over the tombs. The tombs and plots are different than those in the US in that they are mostly raised, there are very few marble stones, often the grave has a gate around it, and in some cases there is nothing but a simple cross and a mound of dirt. There were also stacked crypts, walls of them, each with a small box facing out, with enough space and a ledge to put flowers on and other items you might find on an altar.
The place was buzzing with activity, but there was very little display of sadness.
November 1st is also a day to specifically celebrate the lives of children who have passed.
In the evening D&B and I went to my favorite place for pozole. It is their favorite place too! Actually it was the first restaurant K and I went to in April. And their pozole is very good. (I have never had better pozole than a little place in Cuernavaca and one of the stand in Coyoacan in Mexico City.) The zocalo was swarming with Mexicans, gringos, and children in costumes, mariachi bands, a skeleton couple on stilts, both before and after we had dinner. It was very exciting and the energy was high.
Mas, mas tarde.
Mexico, where else?
After a whirlwind birthday week, I am back in Mexico. My home away from home. I arrived on Tuesday October 30th early in the morning. The flight was very bumpy, lots of turbulence. Luckily I had some sleeping pills that made me almost anxiety free. Last time I was down here, we stopped in Zacatecas for immigration. This time conveniently there were no stops. Have you ever been through immigration and customs in Mexico? Immigration isn't much different than any other country I have been to, in that the customs officers have little to no affability let alone a sense of humor. They must be very bored. Although I checked my bag (I wanted to bring more than a quart bag of toiletries), it was circling the carousel when I was finished with grumpy pants immigration man. Customs is my favorite part of the process. I guess because it seems so kitch how they decide whether or not they are going to check your bag. After they ask you a bunch of questions about what you are bringing (apparently there is a big business in fashionable clothes down here so many people bring in giant bags full of clothes to sell without claiming it... illegal of course... someone is getting paid) in, you are faced with a thing that looks just like a traffic light with two lights. You push a button. If the green light shines, you are free to pass. On the other hand, if you get a red light, there is a terrible, loud, buzzing sound, just like in a game show when you get an answer wrong. Of course this means you don't pass until they tear through your luggage looking for contraband. They say this process is completely random. I am skeptical. I have only had the red light once since I have been coming to Mexico.
I was greeted by a man holding a sign with my name on it. How is that for special? Well, it comes with a cost of course. A shuttle from the Leon airport to San Miguel de Allende is $28 plus a tip. I guess it is about an hour drive. There was a couple from Arizona who joined me. They were very interesting (both retired teachers from Chicago) and we passed the time chatting and me giving them some suggestions on places to go. I was also able to practice my Spanish a little with the driver. It's like using an atrophied muscle sometimes. I arrived at the front door of my friend's parents by around 9am.
More later...
I was greeted by a man holding a sign with my name on it. How is that for special? Well, it comes with a cost of course. A shuttle from the Leon airport to San Miguel de Allende is $28 plus a tip. I guess it is about an hour drive. There was a couple from Arizona who joined me. They were very interesting (both retired teachers from Chicago) and we passed the time chatting and me giving them some suggestions on places to go. I was also able to practice my Spanish a little with the driver. It's like using an atrophied muscle sometimes. I arrived at the front door of my friend's parents by around 9am.
More later...
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