Making our way to Olinala was an adventure taking 2.5 - 3 hours. More mountains, up down, around. Our driver was careful to not have any head on collisions. Nice of him. Once here we easily found the Moon Travel book recommended Hotel Cindy. It is owned by an older man, Domingo. He and a bevy of young girls run the place. For some reason there have been lots of bug and critters in my life since we arrived here. I am hoping to leave them here when we leave in the morning. Last night we both wore ear plugs which protected our ears from earwigs and kept the noise level at a minimum especially at 5am this morning. Basically there were at least 3 earwigs on the bedside table last night. In the morning we came across a scorpion in our doorway. As soon as I opened the door and the light hit it, it went scurrying for the next doorway. Caroline got a quick photo though. Then, as we were descending the stairs, a giant grasshopper swooped just milimeters from my head. Later in the afternoon at lunch Caroline had to flick an earwig off my shoulder - that really freaked me out. Back in the room for a quick siesta, an earwig was having its way with my toothbrush. And finally (we can hope)in the tiny church yard I was buzzed by a giant bumble bee or something like it.
I don´t mind spiders, but these other things really bother me. I did find the scorpion fascinating. I have only ever seen a dead one and one in a cage at the Vivarium. I like to think of myself as pretty tough and not easily ruffled. I become a blathering idiot when it comes to these things.
Other than bugs and creepy crawlies, Olinala has been absolutely beautiful. The people here are incredibly friendly (including the missionary who tried to lure us into watching a movie about Jesus they were playing on the wall in the place next door to our hotel). The girls who run our hotel and make food are very sweet and have fun talking with us about random things like bugs. Everyone on the street has been very nice. We have both received lots of stares as if people have never seen two gringas in their town. It is probably true they have never seen a woman as tall as Caroline. Kids are particularly impressed by her and will stare as we walk by and then turn so they can keep watching! We have met lots of sweet dogs and even a few cats. Tonight we even found some pigs, burros, cows/bulls, and giant turkeys and chickens. Speaking of which, the animals here appear to be VERY well fed compared to other places in Mexico I have been. It makes me happy to see.
Finding food for Caroline has been an interesting task and somewhat humurous. We ask for a torta with queso Oaxaqueno (somewhat like mozzarella) and they go to the store, come back and tell us there is only Bimbo (bread in a bag) no rolls. We settle for tortillas. Then she shows us the cheese she has, something much different than the one we requested. But they try very hard. And in the end we ate like queens: handmade tortillas, refried beans, tomatoes, avocados, onion, and salty fresh cheese. That was after a giant plate of papaya, pineapple, and oranges with fresh honey. Wow. I believe it will be a bit easier to find fish and other edible items for Caroline in Acapulco.
The craft stores have been exactly what I expected. Beautiful works of art stacked up one on top of another. Francisco (Don Chilo)Coronel is definitely the most talented and his prices are reflective of the quality. He even had silver and gold leafed boxes, then painted with the traditional flowers which were gorgeous. There are a handful of shops around town. I think we hit all of them. I will take photos to post at some point. I got a decent variety of the available designs, but somewhat regret not sucking it up and spending the money on a silver or gold one from Don Chilo´s.
Tomorrow we are off to Acapulco. It is going to be a very long day, starting at about 6:15am, catching a combi (van) back to Chilapa and from there, getting back to Chilpancino and then Acapulco or possibly straight through from Chilapa to Acapulco depending on what is available and how uncomfortable it will be.
Mas tarde.
Mexican Sunset
Friday, October 31, 2008
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Travels to Chilapa
Caroline and I left on the plane at about midnight on Tuesday night. We arrived in Mexico City at 6am. Our flight to Acapulco wasn´t leaving until almost 10am so we had quite a bit of time to wander around and get some exercise.
I hear a horse walking down the street outside.
They actually have a Starbucks, Subway, MacDonalds, and Burger King in the airport domestic terminal. We splurged on $4 lattes. And slept, and ate a delicious torta (Mexican sandwich), and sat around people watching. We finally boarded the plane for Acapulco 4 hours later. It was an hour flight over beautiful mountains and past two snow capped volcanos. We arrived just as I was getting a little shut eye.
As soon as we touched down and the cabin door was open, you could instantly feel the hot muggy air. I couldn´t get my sweatshirt off soon enough.
A cab to the bus station was $25. When we arrived there, they told us the first bus for Chilpancingo (our first stop) was going to be at 1pm, in two hours. So, we hopped another taxi for $15 to the central bus station. Acapulco was teaming with activity and almost bumper to bumper traffic. Lining the beaches and the main streets are huge high rise hotels mixed in with smaller, ocean side restaurants and clubs. I was happy to be driving through and not stopping. I need to brace myself for that mess.
We arrived just in time for the 12:30pm bus to Chilpancingo with front row seats. Perfect for Caroline with her very long legs! The cuota - toll road - goes from Acapulco all the way to Mexico City actually. We were only going about an hour to Chilpancingo, however.
Chilpancingo is a fairly large city with a university and lots of businesses. It is also the capital of the state of Guerrero. We wanted to take a bus to Chilapa, a small town on the way to Olinala, but the next bus wasn´t leaving until 6pm. Obviously that was much too late. The bus station attendant directed us up the street to find a combi - a van - going to Chilapa. Sure enough, when we reached the aformentioned street, there were thousands of combis all going to various locations. We didn´t see any going to Chilapa. I was feeling very conspicuous with my long red hair, very tall friend, backpacks and rolly suitcases. There were men everywhere staring at us. I asked a couple of people about combis to Chilapa, but was unsuccessful. I am not sure if I didn´t understand, or was just getting too overwhelmed. It was loud, tons of cars, lots of people, men staring at us and I decided the best thing to do would be to find a taxi. So, we got one and he wanted $40! I talked another one down to $35. Actually that is a deal! It was about an hour and a half drive on a narrow winding road into and through the mountains.
The ride was gorgeous. The landscape is very green and lush. The terrain is mountainous, but not at a very high altitude. I think Chilapa is at about 4000 feet. When we arrived, the town was bustling, lots of activity particularly near the market on the main road into town. The hotel we had picked out was very easy to find, just off the main street and up a block or two.
The hotel room was very basic, but very clean. Two very hard double beds, an overhead light, a TV, and a shower in the bathroom. Hot water too. All for $25. That is $12.50 each! After getting settled in we headed out for some comida (food) and found a great restaurant a few blocks away, near the zocalo (town center). The restaurant was in a giant open building with brick walls, wooden beams and beautful wood and clay masks all over the walls. We both had cheese enchiladas served with cream and something like parmesan on top, black beans and salsa on the side with fresh tortillas. Excellent.
After a stroll around town, into the iglesia (church) and up the hill to see the vista, we were ready to chill in the zocalo. Everyone in the town comes out to sit in the square, eat popsicles of fresh fruit, sweet pancakes with fruit sauce, fresh potato chips, and corn on the cob with mayonaise and hot sauce. Caroline and I feasted on strawberry popsicles, mine chocolate covered, nut dipped.
On the way home we met two very cute, very attentive chiuauas. Their people, in one of the many shops were happy to share them with us. Such sweet boys! It really made me miss Ruby (and Charlie too)!
At 8:30pm we crawled into bed and fell asleep reading about our next adventure.
I hear a horse walking down the street outside.
They actually have a Starbucks, Subway, MacDonalds, and Burger King in the airport domestic terminal. We splurged on $4 lattes. And slept, and ate a delicious torta (Mexican sandwich), and sat around people watching. We finally boarded the plane for Acapulco 4 hours later. It was an hour flight over beautiful mountains and past two snow capped volcanos. We arrived just as I was getting a little shut eye.
As soon as we touched down and the cabin door was open, you could instantly feel the hot muggy air. I couldn´t get my sweatshirt off soon enough.
A cab to the bus station was $25. When we arrived there, they told us the first bus for Chilpancingo (our first stop) was going to be at 1pm, in two hours. So, we hopped another taxi for $15 to the central bus station. Acapulco was teaming with activity and almost bumper to bumper traffic. Lining the beaches and the main streets are huge high rise hotels mixed in with smaller, ocean side restaurants and clubs. I was happy to be driving through and not stopping. I need to brace myself for that mess.
We arrived just in time for the 12:30pm bus to Chilpancingo with front row seats. Perfect for Caroline with her very long legs! The cuota - toll road - goes from Acapulco all the way to Mexico City actually. We were only going about an hour to Chilpancingo, however.
Chilpancingo is a fairly large city with a university and lots of businesses. It is also the capital of the state of Guerrero. We wanted to take a bus to Chilapa, a small town on the way to Olinala, but the next bus wasn´t leaving until 6pm. Obviously that was much too late. The bus station attendant directed us up the street to find a combi - a van - going to Chilapa. Sure enough, when we reached the aformentioned street, there were thousands of combis all going to various locations. We didn´t see any going to Chilapa. I was feeling very conspicuous with my long red hair, very tall friend, backpacks and rolly suitcases. There were men everywhere staring at us. I asked a couple of people about combis to Chilapa, but was unsuccessful. I am not sure if I didn´t understand, or was just getting too overwhelmed. It was loud, tons of cars, lots of people, men staring at us and I decided the best thing to do would be to find a taxi. So, we got one and he wanted $40! I talked another one down to $35. Actually that is a deal! It was about an hour and a half drive on a narrow winding road into and through the mountains.
The ride was gorgeous. The landscape is very green and lush. The terrain is mountainous, but not at a very high altitude. I think Chilapa is at about 4000 feet. When we arrived, the town was bustling, lots of activity particularly near the market on the main road into town. The hotel we had picked out was very easy to find, just off the main street and up a block or two.
The hotel room was very basic, but very clean. Two very hard double beds, an overhead light, a TV, and a shower in the bathroom. Hot water too. All for $25. That is $12.50 each! After getting settled in we headed out for some comida (food) and found a great restaurant a few blocks away, near the zocalo (town center). The restaurant was in a giant open building with brick walls, wooden beams and beautful wood and clay masks all over the walls. We both had cheese enchiladas served with cream and something like parmesan on top, black beans and salsa on the side with fresh tortillas. Excellent.
After a stroll around town, into the iglesia (church) and up the hill to see the vista, we were ready to chill in the zocalo. Everyone in the town comes out to sit in the square, eat popsicles of fresh fruit, sweet pancakes with fruit sauce, fresh potato chips, and corn on the cob with mayonaise and hot sauce. Caroline and I feasted on strawberry popsicles, mine chocolate covered, nut dipped.
On the way home we met two very cute, very attentive chiuauas. Their people, in one of the many shops were happy to share them with us. Such sweet boys! It really made me miss Ruby (and Charlie too)!
At 8:30pm we crawled into bed and fell asleep reading about our next adventure.
Monday, October 27, 2008
Mexico!
I leave for Mexico with my friend Caroline tomorrow night! I am super excited to show her my favorite place in the world. She has never been there, but has a true traveler's spirit. I think she will love it! Stay tuned!
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