Well, it is SUPER hot here. I like it mostly, but it can sap your energy really quick if you aren´t careful. The internet cafe is a good place to be in the middle of the day when you can´t find any shade outside anywhere.
Yesterday I walked up to El Pipila monument. It takes about 20 minutes with frequent breaks to catch your breath. I don´t remember if I mentioned that this town is at more than 6000 feet. It was in the morning, so it was still relatively cool out. I took some great photos of Pipila. The view from up there is incredible, so I got a bunch of photos of the town and the surrounding mountains as well.
In the afternoon, K and I met up for lunch. We walked down to the Mercado Hidalgo, making a number of stops in interesting looking shops. Our priority was finding some good tacos. After walking around the market a little, we settled on a stand that had carnitas, tacos and tortas (Mexican sandwiches). It wasn´t an easy decision because there were so many to choose from. We each had two large tacos and I had a coke. It was $5. It seems like prices have gone up a bit, but that was still a decent deal. And I saw another patron pay for the exact meal and it was the same price. Often I think we get prices and salsas for gringas.
After satisfying our need for food, we wandered around the market. It is quite small and doesn´t hold a candle to the one in SMA. I was very disappointed. It actually made me want to go back to SMA to buy some things I was sure I could find here, but haven´t. Anyway, it is a large building, about the size of a Safeway at home, with lots of stalls. Upstairs there is a balcony, one stall thich, that has tourist chochkeys. Most of it was complete junk. I did get a few interesting things.
On the way back to the center of town we stopped in a number of little plazas. They are all over the place here. It is a good thing, because the traffic on the main streets is thick with petrol fumes, enough to get you really high. And there were lots of people on very narrow sidewalks. So, going via the little side streets is much more agreeable.
We stopped in the Jardin for a cool drink, which was actually warm. Not as refreshing as expected. That was a short rest before a serious nap.
After a nice shower and getting some decent clothes on we looked around for some street grub. Unlike SMA there are lots of places to get tacos, tortas, chile rellenos, pozole, sopes, and huaraches (a bigger version of a sope in the shape of a shoe sole). K wasn´t too keen on any of the options available, so we went to a plaza we had passed through. After looking at all the menus, settled on La Oreja de Van Gough. While we were searching out a restaurant, we stumbled upon a really great jazz band playing. Unfortunately we weren´t able to hear them from our table, because they were in the next plaza over.
Dinner was acceptable, but nothing amazing. We left there and decided to get a bottle of tequila for the next part of our evening. At the Jardin is also a church and Teatro Juarez right next to each other. In front of the church there is a band that plays every night. The group is all dressed in matching costumes like they used to wear in the 1600s. They do a little show and then take off through the town, singing and playing as they go. It was silly fun. They actually go part of the way to our room, so we stopped in and dropped off the bottle. We met back up with the group, following the music it was easy to find them. During this parade, you are required to pay $80 pesos. For that you can be a part of the parade and they give you a ceramic thing (that looks a lot like a bong) from which you drink orange juice. When I first saw it I thought it was pulque, but I was mistaken, much to our dismay.... We have both been wanting to try it and haven´t had an opportunity yet. Apparently it has a very low alcohol content and you have to drink a lot of it to get any buzz from it. Anyway, when they realized we didn´t have a cup, they made us leave.
Later in the evening K and I parted and I went back to the casa. There I met up with the guy I had met a day or two before. Then a French guy (Franc) joined us. It was a good conversation about cool places to see in the world and especially in Mexico. It was Franc´s first time in Mexico. He is loving it so far.
When I returned to the casa, K had already gone to bed. I ran into (almost literally) one of the students living in another room in our casa. We started talking and moved up to the terrace so we wouldn´t bother K and la Señora Lidia. Then the other student joined us. I was really putting my Spanish to good use. At times I understood well, and other times I had no idea what they were talking about. Both are from the state of Guanajuato and are attending school at the University if Guanajuato. Armando is also a folklorico dancer and a bull rider. That is quite a combination! When I asked what he liked better he said bull riding, without a doubt. Abraham is into mountain biking, climbing, rapelling, and other outdoor sports. It sounded like their parents were all well educated, teachers and something for the government.
This morning we got up and had a breakfast of frutas and cafe with Sñra Lidia. While we were sitting there, a man came in with two huge boxes of candy. During the day she comes down to the Plaza Mexiamora (the closest plaza) and sells candy to the kids who go to school nearby. It seems as if she is the grandmother to all of them. Anyway, she bought a stack of new candy to sell. She paid with a plastic bag full of coins. It was about $200p. I wonder if she is making any money with her side job? She also told us that she isn´t in any guide books for lodging because they wanted to charge her per person she gets to stay at her place. Apparently Casa Bertha has to pay some of the guide books to get their name in them. It seems really wrong to me. We told her that when we got home we would plug her place to the Lonely Planet. We are fairly sure they don´t charge.
Just outside of town is an area called Presa de la Olla. We took the bus up there after breakfast. Many of the homes are grand art deco places. Their roofs are caving in, but they still run businesses in them. Social services. Go figure. Actually the CPS down here DIF is located in a very nice, fairly new building. We stopped in at a haunted house that was recommended by Sñra. It was silly, but still I was scared. We were supposed to see real antiques, but I don´t think there was one real antique in the entire house.
The walk back to town was getting really hot, so we jumped back on a bus and here I am!
We have two and a half more days to explore Guanajuato, more than enough time. This afternoon we are planning to check out the Museum of Diego Rivera, some building with famous murals, and the Callejon de los Besos. The story is much like Romeo and Juliet. Feuding families and two kids in love. The callejon (very small street) is so narrow they were able to reach across and kiss each other from their respective balcony´s. So romantic. I am also considering taking a day trip back to SMA to pick up those things I didn´t get when I was there. It´s a bit of a trek though, so I´m not sure yet what I want to do.
Well, I need to run to the baño. I have to drink lots of water down here. And still I feel dehydrated constantly. I will see you all very soon!
Muchos besos,
Elisabeth