Thoughts on Mexico

I can't believe I have already been home almost a month! I think I ended my posts about Mexico before I even left there because I didn't have computer access during my last 4 days there. But the last part of the trip was really exciting! Doug, Brianne, and I went to Cuernavaca together and then made a pilgrimage down to a little town, Chilapa, for their weekly Sunday market. It was somewhat grueling, but I think definitely worth it! It was a long drive from SMA to Cuernavaca, made even longer by our detours through Toluca. Toluca is a large city southwest of Mexico City. Although it has big easy roads, getting around is nearly impossible if you don't know your way. We missed our turn and got really turned around. We eventually turned off onto small roads and after a dead-end dirt road, and hours of driving, we found our way to the main highway. It was beautiful country. Some of it was in the Sierra Madre, some in the dusty farm lands of central Mexico. All of it was interesting, slightly stressful (navigating with a pitiful map) and beautiful.

We drove into Cuernavaca before dark which was the most important factor. It was fun staying outside of downtown because I was able to see parts of the city I had never seen before. After we settled in, we got in a taxi headed for el centro. It was hopping! There was all kinds of different dances going on. We saw break dancers, Aztec dancers and drummers, and even traditional salsa being danced by elderly couples. Then we went to the church, but there was a wedding in progress so we couldn't really go in and check it out. After walking around a little, we went to eat at La India Bonita the first night. It wasn't great. The best part of it was the dance show after dinner. It was incredibly warm there compared to SMA, although it did get a little chilly after the sun went down.

The next day we took a trip down to Chilapa. It was a 6-8 hour drive round trip. It was too much for one day really, but we had a pretty good time. And we found the little boxes we were looking for. The town is basically a long dusty strip of road in a valley. We went up and down narrow windy roads to get there. What looks like a blip on a map, was actually much longer because of the driving conditions.
Originally, we were going to drive to Olinala where the boxes we were looking for are actually made. They are made of wood from trees that grow there. Well, that idea was quickly dashed when we realized how much longer it would be. We would never get there and back before dark.

When we arrived we were all extremely hungry. We stopped at a place I spotted. They had pork and pork. It was cooked in a tasty sauce. I was a little worried, but ate it because I was so famished. While we were there we asked the girls working there about our lacquer boxes. One of the girls said, "Oh, boxes like this?" and pulled one out of her backpack. She offered her sister to show us the location of the table in the market. I was pretty sure their would be someone selling them at the market, since it is the closest market to the tiny town in the mountains. Sure enough.

They had hundreds of boxes all lacquered and hand painted with either flowers or whimsical little creatures. Brianne grabbed mostly floral boxes. All very beautiful. She was a quick little shopper! I got mostly animal boxes. The couple, Antonio Cortes Calzada and Rafaela Castillo Rendon, from whom we bought the boxes and gourds are from Olinala originally, but now live and work in Chilapa. They were incredibly nice. They invited us to come see their home and where they work. They also offered to contact family members in Olinala to show us around. Unfortunately we were not able to take advantage of their generosity due to the time constraints, but NEXT TIME!!!

That was pretty much all the shopping we had time for. Brianne stopped and got a mask and a bunch of straw/cornhusk flowers. They were obviously getting ready for Christmas (which is a HUGE holiday in Mexico) because they had loads of green and red decorations made of straw, including wreaths, flowers, and garlands.

After shopping for about an hour, we hopped back in the car and drove all the way back to Cuernavaca. It was fine until we got into Cuernavaca after dark. It was difficult driving, we were all really tired, and on edge.

Somehow we made it back to La Casa de Malinche in one piece. For dinner we caught a cab down to La Gringa Tacos. They were some of the best tacos I have ever had! We had al pastor which is marinated grilled pork (see photo) with a sliver of pineapple on top of each taco along with cilantro and onion. It was so damn good. And dinner for 3 was $15 or less. That was one of the most memorable dinners of my time in Mexico.

The next day we slept in. And then toured around town. Unfortunately, in Cuernavaca as all over Mexico, museums are all closed. So, we didn't have much exciting to do and I was really bummed because I really wanted to show Doug and Brianne all of my favorite museums, of which there are many. The Robert Brady Museum, one of the most memorable of all. He was aa American guy who lived in Mexico most of the year and also happened to be independently wealthy. He traveled all over the world collecting folk art and his "house" is chock full of folk art. Most of the rooms are available for viewing. It is located in a building that was at one time a convent. It also has beautiful gardens. I hope they go back when the museums are open!

Doug suggested that we go to Las Mananitas (on him) and have lunch. It was quite a treat and very generous of him to offer. It was first class all the way... including the prices. But, everything was really amazing, including the service. My only complaint was that drinks weren't refilled for free which seems really ridiculous. But it really was a great dining experience. I ordered the Mexican plate with a quesadilla with huitlacoche (corn fungus), a chile relleno with white sauce, and chicken enchiladas one with salsa roja and one with salsa verde. All of it was served with guacamole and rice and beans. I had to take leftovers home, which I ate for breakfast the next morning.